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Post Info TOPIC: 66 Sherman trunk panels & Rear Crossmember repositioning
jim larson


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66 Sherman trunk panels & Rear Crossmember repositioning
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Well I got the Sherman trunk panels. Not sure what all will have to be used, made in us, guage 19. Appear to be match except for a little 3/4 circular hole with a rubber grommet on R & L side panels  and a 5” raised area that gives the panel add Ed strength.  Maybe GM had mor e than one supplier and some had the raised area and some didn’t. Looks like L & R panels made to over lap center panel, when this is done an exact match to width. Out of all the companies I looked a t these are exactly like the CarsInc products except Cars is cheaper by about $15 a panel and they said there’s was 22 gauge.

Now to acquire a mig welder and learn how to weld the panels.  Would it be advisable to paint the whole panels and then grind off the paint before the welding?

Iremoved the rear bumper as the frame Crossmember was bent in at some time and not bent back into it proper position, so rear bumper fit poorly. What would be the best way to pull it back into position?

At first I thought the bumper brackets had been stripped, primed and repainted, after cleaning them a little what I thought was primer was bare steel as they we just dipped at the factory.



-- Edited by jim larson on Tuesday 10th of December 2019 11:32:52 AM

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Jim L

Lake City
Lost in the 60s


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3, 1/2" eye bolts in the holes will provide a place to pull with a come-along. Attach the come-along to a sturdy post and pull on each position and move them a little at a time until the bracket is where you want it. If you have a 3-4 ft straight edge, you should be able to get it quite straight. You can leave it a little short and shim the bumper bracket with a washer too.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20
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C-clamps, Screw style, block each cornerwith 2x4 , vice grip blocks to heavy angle iron, use c-clamps to pull x-member in to correct location.
Whether you use Mitch's method or this one it won't take a lot to move member.
Could also use another vehicle for anchor (tow hooks on truck, trailer hitch).

Not brain surgery, patience and leverage.tiphat

Karl



-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Wednesday 11th of December 2019 05:05:58 AM

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More ambition than brains,

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more ambition than brains wrote:

C-clamps, Screw style, block each corner with 2x4 , vice grip blocks to heavy angle iron, use c-clamps to pull x-member in to correct location.
Whether you use Mitch's method or this one it won't take a lot to move member.
Could also use another vehicle for anchor (tow hooks on truck, trailer hitch).

Not brain surgery, patience and leverage.tiphat

Karl



-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Wednesday 11th of December 2019 05:05:58 AM

 I was going to mention using another vehicle, but in THIS weather, probably not...hyper

OR, bring it the Brunch and we could assist in getting it done too. thumbsup Usually plenty of people to work on 3-4 projects.



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20
jim larson


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Thanks for the suggestions  guys, maybe we will have a warm wave sometime this winter.  I like the bow-tie lunch suggestion; but car is going to the body shop sometime this winter  when they have a slow week for a little work on the hood..  I think I have Karls method figured out. Use a strong piece of angle iron about 5' long blocked at the corners by a 2x4 and use 2 or 3  C clamps from the crossmember to the angle iron to pull the crossmember slowly.  I was thinking about the come-a-long option; but thought I might kink the crossmember. 



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Jim L

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jim larson


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more ambition than brains wrote:

C-clamps, Screw style, block each cornerwith 2x4 , vice grip blocks to heavy angle iron, use c-clamps to pull x-member in to correct location.
Whether you use Mitch's method or this one it won't take a lot to move member.
Could also use another vehicle for anchor (tow hooks on truck, trailer hitch).

Not brain surgery, patience and leverage.tiphat

Karl



-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Wednesday 11th of December 2019 05:05:58 AM

 Got the angle iron and 2x4; but a little unclear on what type of C clamps to use,  I see forged, steel, and cast iron, along with Extra Hy Duty, Hy Duty, Light duty, and Regular along with clamping expressed in LB.  Prices all over the place for clamps with a 6" opening. Do I just need the cheap cast iron one, 1250 lb of clamping ?

 

c-clamps


-- Edited by jim larson on Friday 13th of December 2019 07:01:33 PM



-- Edited by jim larson on Friday 13th of December 2019 07:03:34 PM

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Jim L

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The cast clamp may work for this use, but I always buy forged for future use that requires more force. The clamping force may be about the same between the 2, but a forged will bend when over tightened and the cast will snap suddenly. The forged provides a safety factor.

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

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1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20
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Jim,

If you don't have the C-clamps, try Mitch's suggestion.
A couple of eyebolts, washers and nuts are way cheaper and simpler.

Add 2 cable pullers anchor to truck, tension and pull equally first.
If you drag the car, then come and borrow mine.

Karl



-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Monday 16th of December 2019 08:39:51 AM

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More ambition than brains,

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If you're pulling at the two holes by the tank filler why not use some 1/2" threaded rod with appropriate hardware?



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Bob W.

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I also have threaded rod that could work as Bob says, free!

Same angle, blocks, washers and nuts.

Liberal lube on threads.

Holes in angle, thick washer, back side of crossmember,  rod through angle, nut on rod, well lubed, tighten side to side.

Will probably need to go a little over center.

thumbsup

 



-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Monday 16th of December 2019 08:45:06 AM

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More ambition than brains,

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jim larson


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Bobs_Place wrote:

If you're pulling at the two holes by the tank filler why not use some 1/2" threaded rod with appropriate hardware?

 Finished with Crossmember.

 

 



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Jim L

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There you go!

thumbsup

Karl



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More ambition than brains,

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Bobs_Place


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Good Job   beers

 

 

 



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Bob W.

Lino Lakes
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Nice tool and good work.

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Bruce L. - Lakeville MN

1971 Malibu Convert

 
jim larson


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Bumper brackets, basted, primed with 2K epoxy, and finished in satin black.  Removed all sign of rust from back side of Rear bumper, skufffed, primed with 2K epoxy, and finished with a chrome enamel.  Need to drop gas tank to finish back side of frame, then install bumper and re- install gas tank.  Cleaning and refinishing bolts, special washers,  and nuts, except new SS capped bumper bolts.



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Jim L

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