Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

cooz65 · Webmaster

700r4 checking my answers

67ss · 1K+ Club

My guess is TCI thought you had a 1406 style edelbrock carb not a quadrajet replacement. So does you Q-jet have the stud on the lower back part of the throttle linkage like your picture shows? If it does you hook the TV cable right to that. If it does not then just buy a replacement stud like that one that bolts into that spot.

cooz65 · Webmaster

yes it does that that stud on the lower part, but heres the thing, when I would attach it, I could feel the plunger already being pushed in, instead of just barely being touched, and then the plunger would bottom out before I was at WOT. I have the cable adjusted as far out as it will go. I mean it's only off maybe, 1/8"in each direction, but none the less, I can't get to WOT with the plunger buried and at idle with the plunger just engaging. Is there a fix for this? I stumbled across this website, http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html which shows how he cut and rewelded the arm to fit those angles? Sound good?

SteveS · Super Poster

When I put the the 700r4 in mine I had a Holley 4150 carb. I bought a bolt on arm like the TCI one you show. It would bolt to my carb but I still ended up cutting and rewelding the button on it to get it to work like I wanted. If you can cut and reweld the arm like they show it should work.

67ss · 1K+ Club

Option B here is the line pressure table from the service manual. Borrow a gauge and try to adjust it accordingly. Sorry it is upside down but you'll figure it out.

-- Edited by 67ss on Wednesday 19th of June 2013 01:55:54 PM

67ss · 1K+ Club

I think before I would butcher up the linkage you might bring the car to John at Master and let him get it adjusted for you.

cooz65 · Webmaster

Thanks for the advice. John is a little bit of a drive for me, but I am definitely going to give him a call after work and see what words of encouragement he has to offer before I start cutting. It seems kind of odd to me that GM didn't get this right in the first place. For such a critical system it just doesn't seem like guys should have had this much trouble with it had it been good to go in the first place.

SteveS · Super Poster

Getting John's advise is a good idea. I would guess that the button on your carb was intended for a kick down cable like a turbo 350 would have. The kick down cable is more like an on/off switch where your TV cable adjustment is more critical because it varies with the throttle position.

Lost in the 60s · President

There should be a mounting point for the cable housing at the carb. In my limited opinion, that plate should move forward to allow the cable to extend further instead of cutting an arm and moving it back. If the cable is too short to get more travel, the cable may be wrong for the application. I have the bowtie kit for my '38 and will see what adjustment there is for the housing mount and cable length.

67ss · 1K+ Club

Lost in the 60s wrote:
There should be a mounting point for the cable housing at the carb. In my limited opinion, that plate should move forward to allow the cable to extend further instead of cutting an arm and moving it back. If the cable is too short to get more travel, the cable may be wrong for the application. I have the bowtie kit for my '38 and will see what adjustment there is for the housing mount and cable length.

That is exactly what I did to the holding bracket that is on the 55. I cut it welded two screws to it with nuts on the bottom. So I am able to slide the whole bracket forward or backwards on itself to fine tune as needed.

Bungy L-76 · Active Member

It's not the cable, they're all the same. The problem is how it's mounted. If it's connected closer to the carb pivot point it will have a shorter pull, farther away, it'll have a longer pull.

GM did get it right. The problem is, you're not using GM parts, you're using TCI parts. It appears TCI didn't get it right. I'm sure GM made cars with a Quadrajet carb and a 700R4 trans. Maybe you could just get the GM carb linkage and cable mounting bracket for that application and it would be a simple bolt on.

bowtie · Secretary

67ss wrote:
That is exactly what I did to the holding bracket that is on the 55. I cut it welded two screws to it with nuts on the bottom. So I am able to slide the whole bracket forward or backwards on itself to fine tune as needed.

You did this on mine on the original carb setup too.

SShink · 3K+ Club

bowtie wrote:
67ss wrote:
That is exactly what I did to the holding bracket that is on the 55. I cut it welded two screws to it with nuts on the bottom. So I am able to slide the whole bracket forward or backwards on itself to fine tune as needed.
You did this on mine on the original carb setup too.

C'mon guys... help the kid out here. Any pics you can post?

67ss · 1K+ Club

I cannot seem to post pictures anymore. It just sits and loads but never finishes.

Lost in the 60s · President

My Bowtie kit is for a Lokar cable and has a fancy adjustable mechanism to mount on the throttle arm. Not gonna be appicable to a regular TV end.

bowtie · Secretary

TV cable corrector lever:

installed:

The bracket is 2 pieces, 67SS slotted one and used screws to help hold it firm until it was correct, then tacked it into place and added paint. Had to get a little creative. The original bracket was some sort of universal one I think and part of it was cut off and discarded too.

-- Edited by bowtie on Thursday 20th of June 2013 08:44:35 PM

cooz65 · Webmaster

Thanks for the pictures Bowtie! I talked with this guy named cliff, from http://cliffshighperformance.com/, and dang what a guy! Knew everything there was to know about quadrajets and he talked and bs.ed with me for about 15 mins just talking cars. I would by his rebuild kit and other parts from him just from the willing to help standpoint. He said that the geometry between the kickdown stud and a tv stud were very close and that if I use that bottom stud I would be in the ball park. I like the idea of slotting that bracket to give a little bit more play in the system. I will be on my way home tonight after work and will give it a try. Does anyone have a transmission pressure gauge? I called my local napa and they didn't have one, or any ideas of where I could rent one from? Thanks!

67ss · 1K+ Club

I wonder if orielly's in their loaner tools might have an oil pressure gauge tester that would go high enough. If not PM me and I might be able to help you out.

cooz65 · Webmaster

Alright so tonight I took some measurements of my arm and it looks like my angles are very similar to GM's

http://www.countywidetransmissions.com/images/cadjust.pdf

Here are some pictures of the plunger, with it all the way out, it is just barely touching the plunger, just has it pushed in a hair,

?ui=2&ik=7a8bfe5d8d&view=att&th=13f69a8a2ecf9f9e&attid=0.1&disp=inline&realattid=1438507042741420032-local0&safe=1&zw&saduie=AG9B_P9apXIdhQrELGyZJ21DaAWa&sadet=1371867347254&sads=O5Tv85z7eXjcJhKHeX1g9y-BWmk

and here is a picture with it buried

?ui=2&ik=7a8bfe5d8d&view=att&th=13f69a7d279d9245&attid=0.1&disp=inline&realattid=1438506977806254080-local0&safe=1&zw&saduie=AG9B_P9apXIdhQrELGyZJ21DaAWa&sadet=1371867399471&sads=iFW_J7a5hia0FaCvqTnvyow4wwQ

At WOT the plunger is right up the edge of the radius, you can push it in that hair more, but is it supposed to flush? or how I have it? If I burry the plunger, it will throw off my idle setting and vise versa.

Also, is an external tranny cooler supposed to be used with the radiator cooling lines, so it would run through the radiator and then through an external cooler, or are those external coolers intended to be run by themselves.

Thanks for the help!

cooz65 · Webmaster

sorry for the huge pictures.......

cooz65 · Webmaster

Went out for the maiden voyage yesterday! Everything seemed to work great except a few minor things. I'm kicking myself for not replacing the gasket around the tv cable, got a real small leak there. and the tranny seemed to shift really nice and smooth, not a problem, but it would shift into OD at 30 mph. If I was accelerating up to cruising speed it would shift just fine, but on the back roads, it would seem like it would go from 2nd gear to 4th and not hold itself in third. I could shift it down to third, but as soon as i put it in od it would go to fourth? This just seems way to soon, buuut I was very pleased to see the torque converter lock up at at 60 mph I was only spinning about 1800 rpms! What a relief!

Lost in the 60s · President

Sounds like you are very close on the adjustment. Good to see you are working thru all the issues that arise with these type of swaps. Many people give up. I can't help with the details as I haven't installed my 200r4 yet but I like your "tenacity'. Keep at it and you'll get it !!

cooz65 · Webmaster

Just wanted to say THANK YOU to everyone that helped out! everything is in place and working properly (or so it seems). See ya guys next week at car craft!

SShink · 3K+ Club

cooz65 wrote:
Just wanted to say THANK YOU to everyone that helped out! everything is in place and working properly (or so it seems). See ya guys next week at car craft!

That's great Steven! CC will be a blast, and you will have fun hanging out on Chevelle Row!

bowtie · Secretary

One of the coolest things about Car Craft with the club is there we all have different interests when there. Some guys are into the RSE stuff, some are into resto cars, some are just there to be there, some are there to be seen and see all their friends. If you don't know anyone in the club, you will by the end of the first day, just follow along with a coupld guys when they go looking at stuff.

John D · 2K+ Club

Cooz - check your PM's

John D · 2K+ Club

Oh, and as far as your cooler question - you'll get as many replies/opinions as there are people... so here's my take on the subject, based upon personal experience and input from professional transmission rebuilders.

IMO the "correct" method is to run the output line (hot fluid) into a "radiator / fluid to fluid" cooler 1st, then the output of the fluid to fluid cooler into an auxiliary "fluid to air" cooler, then back to the transmission.

Here's the theory:
Fluid to Fluid will stabilize (and/or equalize) the temperature of the fluid being cooled MUCH faster than fluid to air. So, if your trans fluid is hotter than engine coolant it will bring it down to 200 or so degrees. Inversely, it will bring cold trans fluid up to temp and/or help engine coolant get up to temp (faster engine warm up).
(Think about it - when welding or grinding a part do you let it sit on the bench for 1/2 hour, or dunk it in a bucket of water and touch it in 20 seconds?)

Then, running it to the air to air will further cool the trans fluid down (below 200 or so) and back to the transmission where it will equalize with the hotter fluid in the unit or pan.