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Post Info TOPIC: Brake Pull


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Brake Pull
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I am puzzled with this one:

Over the winter I installed SSB disc spindles and a new set of pads on the front.  Nothing else changed from previous years.

Whenever I come off of harder braking (say going from 45 MPH down to 30 MPH quickly) I get a hard pull to the right.  It almost seems like it happens when I RELEASE the pedal.  You have to really fight the wheel to keep it in your lane.

Yesterday I ripped apart the front right brake assembly, cleaned everything, inspected everything, and put it back toghether.  Everything else looked in order.

Testing it on the way home from Dashboard's I still get the pull.  I follow far behind cars because I don't want to have to put my foot into it and then fight the wheel.

Under light/ moderate braking this is not an issue.  Also when coming to a stop and going nothing is noticed.

Any ideas?



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Andy

Southern Suburbs



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Do you have stock style rubber hoses? If so, its possible that the rubber may be soft or acts as a sort of check valve and holds pressure for a second as the other wheels release as they should. Maybe a situation where the rubber decompresses when hydraulic pressure releases.

Master cylinders and proportioning valves dont have individual control over each wheel so that rules that out. Your pulling to one side is likely due to one wheel (most likely fronts as they do 80% of the breaking) is locking up when it shouldnt or not releasing when it should. Since your pulling when you let off the brake, that says one wheel or one side is not releasing the brakes right away.

I would raise the vehicle up off all four wheels and get a partner to push the pedal while you turn each wheel. When telling guy inside to release the pedal, spin the wheel and see if the wheel releases right that second or delays before the wheel is released.

I would also pull off the calipers, compress the pistons in and see if you can slide each caliper to make sure they are floating and not stuck in place or are not moving back and fourth freely. You also will find out when moving the piston back in, if the piston itself is free and able to move inside the bore as well.

MAKE SURE THOUGH, your master cylinder isnt full up to the rim with fluid or when you move the piston back in, fluid will end up overflowing in the reservior and you will have a mess to clean up. This is why I also tell guys to never top off the fluid in your master cylinder. If the fluid is getting low, thats because your pads are wearing like they should. Most people that top off flud end up with a mess when it comes time to change thier front pads because you have to push the piston back in the caliper in order to get a new set of pads on. Which overflows the reservior. As long as you remember to remove fluid in the master cylinder, your fine, most forget they added fluid months before the brake pads actually wear out and a mess is made. Its better to just leave the fluid in the master alone.

In the end, if you have a hard right side pull when coming off the brake pedal. I would consider checking the left front caliper first to see why there is a possible delay of it staying on when the rest of the brakes on the other 3 wheels have released as they should. If that checks out, I would also check the right rear as well.

Do you have 4 wheel discs or Disc/drum? I never looked at that today.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

Sincerly,

The opportunist.



Vice President

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Sounds like a bad brake line. If thw brakes pull after you release the brakes, the line may be stopping the brake fluid from returning back to the master cylinder.



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Bob W.

Lino Lakes



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Piston is sticking in the caliper.



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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Thanks for the insight guys. It is going to only set me back $40 for a caliper and hose. Those will go on the car tomorrow/ Thursday and hopefully that will solve my problem.

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Andy

Southern Suburbs



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Check it first and make sure its not something you can free up yourself. It might be something as simple as lubricating the slides. Especially when these cars sit for half the year.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

Dear Optimist, Pessimist, and Realist.

While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

Sincerly,

The opportunist.



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I have experienced that issue on my motorcycles. I just pop the piston out of the caliper to clean the crud out from under the o-ring and problem solved for zero dollars and zero cents.

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Darren - Crystal, MN
1972 4-door Chevelle driver/racer
2003 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab



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4-door Chevelle wrote:

I have experienced that issue on my motorcycles. I just pop the piston out of the caliper to clean the crud out from under the o-ring and problem solved for zero dollars and zero cents.


Yep a caliper kit is only a few bucks but if you don't know how to do it, the loaded rebuilts are fast and easy.

 



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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I've already tried cleaning and lubing the slides/ other components. With the caliper being $22.00 I picked one up versus the rebuild. I have not rebuilt one and I bet I still have the receipt from my old one I bought 3 years ago (life time warranty).

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Andy

Southern Suburbs

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