Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Members Login
Username 
 
Password 
    Remember Me  
Post Info TOPIC: Changing converter on TH400


Active Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 460
Date:
Changing converter on TH400
Permalink  
 


Will be pulling tranny and redoing converter. What is the easiest best way to support the engine to limit tipping back. I was thinking jack stand and wood under oil pan or wedging wood oil pan and frame or heads and firewall. Also have a tranny addaptor that bolts to my jack which I am trying for the first time. It have a and adjuster on it which I think will help make the jod easier. Last time I used a motorcycle jack to get it int he car and it was a PITA (2 person job) I am hoping this.

Any good suggestions of thoughts before I take this all apart. Any tricks or ideas to make this easier and safer to do alone ?

thanks



__________________

Jim  -- Pine Island, MN



President

Status: Offline
Posts: 7328
Date:
Permalink  
 

I use a bottle jack and 2X6 piece of wood under the pan. You want adjustability for the engine angle too. Letting it angle down makes it easier to get the trans lined up and allows use of a 3 ft extension to zing the bellhousing bolts in before raising the assembly to install the crossmember.

 



__________________

Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



Active Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 460
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thanks Mitch excellent idea.

__________________

Jim  -- Pine Island, MN



Active Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 460
Date:
Permalink  
 

yes raising the stall. It will be more inline with the engine. See where it takes me : ) dropped my headers off to get recoated as they were showing rust. I was pretty unhappy about that. The coater says they will make it right.



-- Edited by Bowtieman427 on Tuesday 17th of April 2012 09:30:53 PM

__________________

Jim  -- Pine Island, MN



3K+ Club

Status: Offline
Posts: 4731
Date:
Permalink  
 

Jim, are you raising the stall rpm on the converter?



__________________

Stan S.-Twin Cities 'South Metro'

1972 Malibu Convertible 2nd time around 

2001 Mustang GT Convertible 

Forum influenced terms: 'Link Paste', 'Stanitized', & 'Revolving garage door...' 

 



Active Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 460
Date:
Permalink  
 

Had to shim the converter it was .295" (with NO shim) away from the flywheel I used .125" shim hope have enough crank engaugement sure looks like I do. I torqued to 45ft*lbs manuals are all over on torque specs my 68 manual states 33ft*lbs many other sources stated 40-45ft*lbs put a little blue lock tight on the back and antisieze on the front.
Waiting for headers. Starting on rocker adjustment have a couple .001-.002 off
can not wait to try out the new stall.

__________________

Jim  -- Pine Island, MN



Active Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 306
Date:
Permalink  
 

Bowtieman427 wrote:

Had to shim the converter it was .295" (with NO shim) away from the flywheel I used .125" shim hope have enough crank engaugement sure looks like I do. I torqued to 45ft*lbs manuals are all over on torque specs my 68 manual states 33ft*lbs many other sources stated 40-45ft*lbs put a little blue lock tight on the back and antisieze on the front.
Waiting for headers. Starting on rocker adjustment have a couple .001-.002 off
can not wait to try out the new stall.


 I'm confused. Doesn't the converter slide forward and backward on the input shaft? Don't ya just slide it up to the flexplate? Where do the shims go? Between flexplate and TC bolts?



__________________

1964 Malibu Convert
"Nitrous is for guys who can't build motors"

www.worldracingleague.org 

www.facebook.com/wellsmafiaracing

 



2K+ Club

Status: Offline
Posts: 2791
Date:
Permalink  
 

Yup, shims are between the flexplate & TC.

Confused... the .295 measurement "away from the flywheel" meaning when the TC was "buried" into the trans it was .295 away??

Putting a .125 shim means you've moved the TC out of the front pump drive lugs nearly 3/16"... they're only about 3/8" deep to begin with...

__________________

 

John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5

2018 Factory Five MkIV Roadster build thread



Active Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 460
Date:
Permalink  
 

I slid converter all the way into tranny the measurement was from converter mount to flexplate mount (the distance to slide forward before they meet) .295" is the gap a .125" shim was put inbetween to minimize this gap making sure it still mates to the crank. .295" -.125" = .17" total gap which yes is close to 3/16" = .1875"
ideally 1/8min - 3/16max still within range. Did not want to shim to much want to ensure good crank mating which is also critical.
Coan has a nice writeup on this and diagram

http://www.coanracing.com/PDFS/InstallInstructions/TransConv.pdf

"When bolting converter to flexplate, push converter back into
transmission and measure gap between flexplate and
converter. The converter will need a minimum clearance of
1/8", and maximum clearance of 3/16". The converter will
need to pull out of the transmission to the flexplate. If you
have less than 1/8" clearance, you will damage the
transmission. Before bolting converter to flexplate, confirm
converter pilot is engaged into crankshaft pilot. Always use
grade # 8 fasteners to attach converter to flexplate."


Hope this helps

__________________

Jim  -- Pine Island, MN

Page 1 of 1  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.

Chatbox
Please log in to join the chat!