Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Chad · Active Member

four link bushings help

bowtie · Secretary

it's a little dance of raising and lowering until there's no force on the bolt one way or another. I used a big jack under the pumpkin and a little one under one end to help. Someone else might have a better way.

Derek69SS · Founding Member

Are the bolts rusted to the bushing sleeve, or is it just binding? If a BFH can't knock them out, cutting them may be your only option. I've had some success using a sawzall between the bushing and brackets.

I've worked on several with the bolt rusted in the sleeve.

Chris R · 2K+ Club

Ive gotten them loose both ways listed above. If they just wont go then you have to cut the bushing away to get them out. Do you have access to an impact wrench. You can soak the heck out of the bolt and stick the impact on there and drive the heck out of it in both directions. That will also help loosen them up as well.

SShink · 3K+ Club

Chad, I fought a set an entire Saturday afternoon once. Finally ended up getting out the sawzall and cutting the bushings since the bolts were rusted to them on the inside.

The good news is that once you get the old ones out... the new ones go in and come out a whole lot easier if you ever take them out again.

Chad · Active Member

i have an industrial 1/2" impact,it does turn,but i think its rusted to the sleeve inside the bushing.i tried cutting it out,but that sleeve is hardened so it wrecks my blades.i think i'm going to get a air hammer from my neighbor and maybe on Saturday or Friday i'll go another round. thanks for the suggestions, please add to them if you have more.

Tim H · Mega Poster

I've cut them with a torch. It stinks with the rubber burning and the dripping flames. But it works.

Lost in the 60s · President

If they turn slow with the impact, they are rusted in the sleeve. Try turning the nut on flush with the end of the threads and then go at it with a 2 lb maul. Run the impact at the same time on the bolt head. Once in a while you get lucky and it will break free with enough brute force. An air chisel will just bounce on it. Not enough weight or force.

Chris R · 2K+ Club

The problem is anything you try, the rubber absorbs all the impact. Most of the time, if they are original, they will most likely have to be cut out. Unless your car is fortunate to be from a salt free state.

Dave Seitz · Mega Poster

A larger cut off wheel 4" will do the trick as well, ask me how and why I know that.

Tim H · Mega Poster

Dave Seitz wrote:
A larger cut off wheel 4" will do the trick as well, ask me how and why I know that.

Ok Dave this might be dangerous but "How and Why do you know that?"

4-door Chevelle · Super Poster

I will be replacing mine this spring but I just put that rear end in last year so should a piece of cake with chocolate frosting.

SShink · 3K+ Club

One other suggestion that I txtd you is take it to your local mechanic/tire shop and have them remove the old rusty ones, and install the new ones. I had my local Goodyear do it, and they only charged me $45. Best $45 I spent without all the frustration.

Of course, I did this after I fought the bolts for an entire day on a different Chevelle...

Wait until the roads dry off again, and take it in. It will be worth the trip without the frustration, unless you like the challenge.

Chris R · 2K+ Club

Its too bad you couldnt find out from Karl about next Saturday and get the car over there. We have done work on members cars before during the January meeting and its worked out great. Karls always been gracous and willing to us about that. The meeting is in a big auto shop with both body shop area and repair area.

Chad · Active Member

but Stan,i'm a do it your self'er . and if i can ,i like saying i did it my self.i'm not giving up. not yet any way. its not like its nice enough for a cruise.

SShink · 3K+ Club

Chad wrote:
but Stan,i'm a do it your self'er . and if i can ,i like saying i did it my self.i'm not giving up. not yet any way. its not like its nice enough for a cruise.

Completely understand Chad. The gratification of doing it yer self is worth a lot!

jim larson · 2K+ Club

I had one bad rusted one, the one on the frame Upper drivers side. Had to saw it off. Good luck

Lost in the 60s · President

Chad wrote:
but Stan,i'm a do it your self'er . and if i can ,i like saying i did it my self.i'm not giving up. not yet any way. its not like its nice enough for a cruise.
Order correct replacement bolts and nuts now, so you have them ready for reassembly. Hardware store bolts don't have the raised shoulder or rolled threads and are a little sloppy.

Dave Seitz · Mega Poster

You do need Grade 8 Bots and the need correct torque and a thread lock compound. When you do use a thread lock compound decrease the TQ by 5% as compound will reduce the TQ due to the lube properties. If the arms are not boxed ait this time box then for needed strength and drill for sway bar mounting holes.

The reason I know about the cut off wheel is the been there done that on a rusted wreck.

Derek69SS · Founding Member

Factory bolts are only Gr5, but I use Gr8 in all my stuff.

Since they're mounted in shear rather than tension, only the bolt needs to be Gr8. I use standard grade NyLock nuts on mine.

jim larson · 2K+ Club

This is a good site for information on control arms. http://www.leverfamilysite.com/Boxing_Lower_Control_Arms.htm Do you also have frame stiffeners like what was used on the 66 SS cars?