Discussion Forum - Northstar Chevelle Club

Jon H · 1K+ Club

RE: BACK IN THE CARS APART CLUB

dashboard · 2K+ Club

SShink wrote:
Kevin, is Gulf Green the original Elky color you are going with?

Yes 1972 GM paint code 43, without hood stripes (for now) and no v-top.

Thanks Mike this is a great site.

-- Edited by dashboard on Friday 20th of January 2012 12:37:24 PM

SShink · 3K+ Club

Kevin, if the blue elky is still there the next time you go back, jot down the paint code if you wouldn't mind. I don't know if that's the original color, but it looks REALLY close to mine (which I have no idea what the paint code is since mine was originally Mojave Gold according to the trim/paint tag.) Thanks.

67ss · 1K+ Club

SShink wrote:
Kevin, if the blue elky is still there the next time you go back, jot down the paint code if you wouldn't mind. I don't know if that's the original color, but it looks REALLY close to mine (which I have no idea what the paint code is since mine was originally Mojave Gold according to the trim/paint tag.) Thanks.

Stan check out this web site. it is really cool for checking colors and paint codes.

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?manuf=GM&year=1972&model=Chevelle&rows=50

SShink · 3K+ Club

67ss wrote:
SShink wrote:
Kevin, if the blue elky is still there the next time you go back, jot down the paint code if you wouldn't mind. I don't know if that's the original color, but it looks REALLY close to mine (which I have no idea what the paint code is since mine was originally Mojave Gold according to the trim/paint tag.) Thanks.
Stan check out this web site. it is really cool for checking colors and paint codes.
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?manuf=GM&year=1972&model=Chevelle&rows=50

Thanks Chris. That is a cool site and I stand corrected... my Chevelle was originally Placer gold as it's a code 53 car.

Unfortunately, neither of the blue colors on the chart are close to mine. So now I'm wondering if I have a custom color...

OscarZ · Mega Poster

I like looking at the photos for the various years and colors on Chevellestuff.net to see how they look on the cars.

http://chevellestuff.net/1972/chevelle/gallery/index.htm

SShink · 3K+ Club

OscarZ wrote:
I like looking at the photos for the various years and colors on Chevellestuff.net to see how they look on the cars.
http://chevellestuff.net/1972/chevelle/gallery/index.htm

Mike, that's great! I think mine is Ascot Blue now that I see that pic.

Kevin, is Gulf Green the original Elky color you are going with?

Tim H · Mega Poster

Kevin maybe John can add another Cars Apart Club Countdown clock to the site? It will give you (and the rest of us) a target.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Things are moving along nicely at Maaco; most of the body work is going to involve the bed area. Matt’s doing the body work and Matt is very meticulous, plus he loves classic cars; he also has a 69 Chevelle cream puff.

Today I worked on rebuilding the vent windows; I now understand why GM engineered them out of their cars; they are a real challenge. I may need to go to confession when I’m done.

Chris R · 2K+ Club

Kevin. Did you see the two W vin El Caminos I posted in the classifieds?

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Yes I did Chris.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Anyone know of a local source for door rubber looms to route wires through? I’d like to drill the holes and install them when the doors are reinstalled after painting.

bowtie · Secretary

maybe try Metro Moulded Parts? Probably a long shot, but you never know....

Lost in the 60s · President

So, you decided to tackle this on your own, eh ?? It rteally isn't that difficult but does take some time and patience. Do you need to replace the glass run channel felt too ? Mine was gone to the rubber base. I soaked what was left in thinner and scraped the residuw out. Once clean, I sprayed the new felt and channel with 3M profession contact glue and wedged it in. I shaped it by pressing the glass into the felt until it was set. Turned out good...

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Looked into a one-piece window, the price was way beyond my pocket book but it would have been cool.

Started when I decided to polish and buff the vent window chrome on my wheel buffer then, I got board and thought I’d give the seals a try; you’re certainly correct, time and lots of patience required. I have installed the rubber seal in the first vent frame but I’m not pleased with the fit; the window does not seat as well as I think it should. I’m not sure if the regulator once installed will hold the window tightly closed. I’d hate to go through all this and still have wind noise. Still waiting on the window channel felt.

I was such a nice day I took Angie on a day out date, we went to U-Pull in Rosemount and looked for wire boots for the doors. Pulled a set out of Astro van but they may be too big. Interesting place, we where some of the very few there that spoke English.

Stopped by Maaco today to drop off parts and once again I’m impressed with how meticulous Matt is; he removed the rear window to achieve a better detail around it. I’m also surprised with the amount of small dings and dents he has identified and filled.

I keep finding more and more parts I need; I think credit cards rank right up there with some of the best things ever invented by man. When they are maxed out, you only need to call and ask them to raise the limit. How cool is that?

frank · Active Member

try -----National Chevy Association
(651) 778-9522
947 Arcade St, St Paul, MN 55106 Get directions

they have more than there stated years of 49 - 54 call and ask

John D · 2K+ Club

Kevin
The boots I used for my doors came out of a U-Pullit wreck as well. The hardest task was finding a set where you could use a standard size holesaw or electrical punch. You may have an advantage as the doors are off the car. You could use an undersize saw/punch and merely file the opening to what you need. You could even use oval shaped boots.

Lost in the 60s · President

Did you get Metro seals ? Mine didn't look exactly like the old ones either but then they hadn't been mashed by the glass for 40 plus years either. My vent has a lever lock and once I latched that, the glass sealed very nicely.

Chris R · 2K+ Club

It might be possible the Corvette has the same part in which Larry may have them in stock.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

This is moving along quicker than I expected, the Elky should receive its first coat of primer this afternoon. Followed by block sanding then another coat of primer next week then more block sanding, then a coat of sealer, followed by even more sanding, then first shot of paint maybe as early as late next week.

Tim H · Mega Poster

Kevin,

Are you going to clean up and paint the engine bay or is the shop going to do that or leave it as is?

John D · 2K+ Club

"It was such a nice day I took Angie on a day out date, we went to U-Pull in Rosemount"

You've got a helluva gal there... maybe the lunch afterwards made up for the "ambiance" of the wrecking yard?

dashboard · 2K+ Club

That was a discussion item today with Jeff, I’m going to have them do the firewall forward, just seems like the time to do it. I’m also having holes drilled in the door jams and firewall, cowl extensions for future wiring for power windows, door lock, or remote mirror’s.

So what do you guys think, hood stripes, yes, no? Black, white?

John, your right she’s a keeper.

gearlube · Active Member

Hell yes....black....

SShink · 3K+ Club

gearlube wrote:
Hell yes....black....

Chris R · 2K+ Club

Will you be re-applying the stripes again Kevin?

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Actually Chris I’m still trying to decide. What do you recommend?

John D · 2K+ Club

It is an SS car, and has the black band across the tailgate... My choice would be redo the stripes in black.

Over on the website, in the "Cool Links", then "Tech Tips" we have the genuine GM specs for stripe layout available.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

J, the 70-72 El Camino SS came with a ‘blacked out’ tailgate as part of the SS (Z15) package the hood stripes where an option.

SShink · 3K+ Club

Attached pics are from Kevin's spy cam installed when nobody was looking...

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Not a lot to see the last couple of days as its been prime sand, prime sand, prime …..you get the idea. Today Jason sprayed the truck down with a product that levels out and leaves a very high gloss so we could check for imperfections in the body, it is laser straight.

We worked out where the bed liner is going to meet the paint and trim, yep, a sprayed in liner so I can haul the clubs tent my chairs, cooler, grill as well as make a trip to Home Depot.

Drilled the holes in the doors and cowl extensions for future wiring if I want power windows, locks or remote mirrors. Also, work out how to do the cowl, firewall and frame forward paint. The body and paintwork is moving faster then I expected, I’m very pleased with both the shop and the folks working on the truck.

What is not happening is engine work. Competition Engine’s move is taking longer than expected, but Randy is going to have a world-class engine shop when the move is complete but it will be at least two more weeks before I can take the engine in.

However, biggest news today was that the truck moved from the body shop where the bodywork is done to the paint room or clean area and is ready for paint, got my paint sample today, could be a green Elky tomorrow.

Tim H · Mega Poster

Cool.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Going green, paint looks great. Jeff told me the painter spent 5 hours in the booth, not sure but it seems like a long time to me.

As we always say the pictures do not do the paint justice, the color really jumps out in person, yet it’s the original color. Much more so than I remember 32 years ago, could be because when I bought the truck in 1980 it had spent its first eight years in Texas and suffered some fading. Or it could be 32 years of Miller Lites.

Stan, your car turned around and is going the other way.

Chris R · 2K+ Club

dashboard wrote:
Actually Chris I’m still trying to decide. What do you recommend?

I somehow missed this but if it originally came with the stripes on the hood. I would re-apply them. Only the hood would get the stripes anyways since its an el camino and no trunk lid for stripes on the rear. Like you said, all SS El Caminos had the rear blacked out between the trim on the rear gate.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Chris, it came from GM without stripes, interestingly the hood bulge is actually much more pronounced without the stripes. I am going to wait until the truck is put back together and sitting outside on a sunny day before I decide.

SShink · 3K+ Club

dashboard wrote:
Chris, it came from GM without stripes, interestingly the hood bulge is actually much more pronounced without the stripes. I am going to wait until the truck is put back together and sitting outside on a sunny day before I decide.

I don't know on the stripes now Kevin. I'm with you. Get it outside and see how it looks.

I agree that the 'bulge' is bigger without the stripes. The first blue '72 Chevelle I had up here about 8 years ago had the bulge hood without stripes, and I really liked the look. IMO if it's a non SS car, it looks better without the stripes.

And... not having the stripes on yours makes it a conversation piece at car shows when all the SS experts walk by and say... "Look, that's wrong. ALL SS Chevelles and El Camino's had stripes." But we know better!

Chris R · 2K+ Club

I dont know either now. If it didnt have them originally. I would leave them off as well.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

John, heres what I picked up at U-Pull. I need to drill 1 7/8 and 1 5/16 holes then I should be able to run all the wires I will ever need.

John D · 2K+ Club

Here's the bytch... you said you've already got 1/2" holes in the pillar and door... unless the bodyshop has sheetmetal punches in the diameters of your bellows you're kinda screwed. Unless...

They/you make an "arbor adapter" sleeve for the pilot bit on a holesaw arbor. They all use a 1/4" bit for a center drill. You need to make a sleeve with a 1/2" OD, and a 1/4" ID, for the hole saw arbor to ride in the 1/2" hole in your sheetmetal.

2nd bytch - 1-1/2" and 1-1/4" are the nearest standard hole saw sizes. Now taking into account the inherant "wobble" of a hole saw, you'll still need to do some filing to open the holes to your required diameters.

Not too bad of a job with the doors off the car.

SShink · 3K+ Club

Here's pics of the factory ones on my '72.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

John D wrote:

They/you make an "arbor adapter" sleeve for the pilot bit on a holesaw arbor. They all use a 1/4" bit for a center drill. You need to make a sleeve with a 1/2" OD, and a 1/4" ID, for the hole saw arbor to ride in the 1/2" hole in your sheetmetal.

2nd bytch - 1-1/2" and 1-1/4" are the nearest standard hole saw sizes. Now taking into account the inherant "wobble" of a hole saw, you'll still need to do some filing to open the holes to your required diameters.

Not too bad of a job with the doors off the car.

John, My thoughts also, I was going to drill a ¼” hole through the center of a piece of ½” hardwood doweling then use the universal rasp and file on a drill.

Stan, the ones I have look identical to yours.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Starting to put the Elky back together; than just as the paint is really starting to shine the sanding starts.

Door looms for the electric wire are installed but I forgot to get pixs as I spent the day acting as a parts runner.

Tim H · Mega Poster

Kevin did you make the holes in the doors larger? If not i can probably borrow a hydraulic hole punch from work .

67ss · 1K+ Club

I think I would black out the tail gate like before. But run a thin black pinstripe down the side and also use the pinstripe to outline the bulge of the hood maybe. The body shop should have some thin painters tape that you could play with to lay out some lines and see if anything jumps at you.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Tim H wrote:
Kevin did you make the holes in the doors larger? If not i can probably borrow a hydraulic hole punch from work .

Tim, I picked up some ½” brass bushings for the hole drill, pilot drill bit and enlarged the holes, it work very well. But thanks for the offer.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

67ss wrote:
I think I would black out the tail gate like before. But run a thin black pinstripe down the side and also use the pinstripe to outline the bulge of the hood maybe. The body shop should have some thin painters tape that you could play with to lay out some lines and see if anything jumps at you.

I’ll need to explore your idea on the pin striping. I really want to wait till I can see the car outside on a sunny day with all the chrome installed.

You rarely see these hoods without stripes but when you see one without them the bulge really stands out more, bulge is good.

Also, yesterday they repainted the cowl, firewall, core support and rear window shelf.

OscarZ · Mega Poster

Kevin I would leave it without the stripes for now. Then in a few years when you're feeling the urge to change it up again you can add the stripes.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Not much to report, a few more parts installed, sanded with 3000 grit and going back in the paint locker to paint the black on the tailgate.

Yesterday I ran parts; today I delivered six pizzas and three orders of hot wings for the crew.

Mike I think you are correct; I’ll wait till I get the next ‘urge’ to change something for the stripes.

SShink · 3K+ Club

3000 grit and emblems going on... won't be long for buffing soon!

I love the check list on the windshield in grease pencil. Might as well use the space that's available. Especially with all the other cars they have in process.

dashboard · 2K+ Club

Today we where ready to put the chrome around the top of the bed and the back of the tailgate, first package opened was the chrome trim for the top of the tailgate, it had some nasty dings in it.

So, off I go, it’s a 60 mile drive north to Auto City Classics; luckily, Denny had another in stock. While there, I met another Chevelle guy. His 70 just came out of paint, gave him a club card, hope he signs on he has some interesting toys.

Today the hood should have gone on and final fender, door, hood alignment should be close. Monday we should finish the bed, tailgate chrome and door glass. Then polish, polish and bed liner.

I don’t want to turn this into a Maaco commercial, but this team has been great. They take great pride and ownership in their work, have never bumped the price and are just plain fun to be around.

They have some senior guys and some young ones; from my Navy days, it is fun to watch the experienced guy share and train their replacements.