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Post Info TOPIC: disc brake upgrade


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disc brake upgrade
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The last couple of outings with the Chevelle last fall, the brakes seemed to get real "grabby", as in pulling hard to the right and right rear tire locking up. I tried bleeding them and it seemed to help, but still wants to pull to the right. The car is currently 4 wheel drum and I am thinking front disc brake conversion. I know I will have to address the rear wheel locking up, but looking for suggestions on an affordable kit to convert the fronts. Is there a manual kit or should a person go with power brakes?  Or should I try find a donor car? All thoughts and ideas are welcome.  thanks!     



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Mark H    N.W. Metro



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The good disc kits are tough to beat. They've matched the right boosters to the right masters and made it all work nicely now. Most of them use Camaro or Monte Carlo parts adapted over to the A-body spindle. The 'performance' kits are even better. It will feel like an '80s-era F- or G-body...not exactly a new car, but a LOT better than what you've got now.

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Scott Parkhurst

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Hey Mark, good to see you on the forum ...thumbsup

I have the Orange '66 that was next to you at Rock Falls a couple years ago.

A modestly priced disc conversion is the way to go and for sure, power assist. Disc brakes are a big improvement over drums but actually require more pressure to be efficient, since the caliper is squeezing a rotor rather than shoes expanding inside a chamber.  I say modestly priced because the low end products are not the best for fit. A few guys in the club can attest to that. Much of the parts come from China.  I used a donor set-up from a '75 Nova on my '66 with new aftermarket booster and master from www.inlinetube.com  You should already have a dual master so wont need the upgraded distribution block.



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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www.mpbrakes.com



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John D. - St. Louis Park, MN.

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Auto City Classic sells a nice Disc brake upgrade kit that has everthing right down to the bearings and hoses.



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

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I upgraded from manual drum to dual master, power drum on a 65 A body and it was a big improvement, not as good as disc but still a big improvement. I used the same booster, master and distribution valve used with the disc kit so when I am ready to upgrade I already have those parts installed.

Will not be as nice a disc set up, that is what I eventually want to do also but it does offer some improvement for a lot less money.


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Kevin

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Chris R wrote:

Auto City Classic sells a nice Disc brake upgrade kit that has everthing right down to the bearings and hoses.


Ummm not to flirt with vendor bashing... but some members have not had such good luck with that kit.  Poor machining quality on the spindles, defective calipers, prop valves, etc. 

I think CPP makes some reasonably priced kits that are supposed to be good. http://www.classicperform.com/



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SShink wrote:
Chris R wrote:

Auto City Classic sells a nice Disc brake upgrade kit that has everthing right down to the bearings and hoses.


Ummm not to flirt with vendor bashing... but some members have not had such good luck with that kit.  Poor machining quality on the spindles, defective calipers, prop valves, etc. 

I think CPP makes some reasonably priced kits that are supposed to be good. http://www.classicperform.com/


 Exactly my point about avoiding the low end kits...  I have a CPP kit for my Camaro but haven't installed it yet, so I can't comment on quality/fit. I did give the cheesy, chinese master away and bought a correct one from Inline. The rest "looks" to be good, but I won't know for sure until install.



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

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Interesting. I had no idea guys were having issues with thier kits. He could always go wtih modifying the stock drum spindles to accept disc brakes then. Derek did the info on this in an old newsletter. Its a simple modification. 

http://www.northstarchevelles.com/NonSecure/NewsLetters/05mayjun.pdf



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Chris - Ramsey, MN.

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While you guys were busy arguing about the glass of water. I drank it!

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BLUESS wrote:

Thanks for all the replies. Jim brings up a point of just rebuilding the brakes back to stock. Would converting to discs bring the value of the car down if/when I put it back to all original? I still have all matching numbers engine, trans, and paperwork from when it was new. It very seldom sees the street, maybe 300 miles a year. Maybe convert it and just hang on to the original parts for down the road is an option. I am looking at the classic performance kit #6774fbp-11. Any more thoughts or opinions?


 That's the same kit I bought for My '67 Camaro. They hit me $140 TO SHIP it !!! I recommend calling a couple local outlets like MN Hot Rod Hardware or Twin City Rod and Custom. They are both well south of the cities but you can drive a long way to save $140. They will price match on cost and most time, won't charge shipping if you can wait for them to come in on a stock order. Links below...

http://www.twincitiesrodandcustom.com/

http://hotrodhardware.com/

After my experience with CPP, I won't ever buy anything directly from them again. I'll always get it thru a local vendor.

Oh yeah, do the conversion and keep the original parts. The discs will be a huge improvement...thumbsup



-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Saturday 15th of December 2012 02:03:09 PM

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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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Being a #s matching documented SS car, I would recommend finding a set of 4-piston discs that would be correct for '67-68.

I think they're being reproduced now.

Assuming it's a 325hp or 350hp car, I don't think it would hurt the value at all, and it would look "correct".

If the car is an L78 though, I'd stick strictly to what's on the build sheet.



-- Edited by Derek69SS on Saturday 15th of December 2012 02:13:05 PM

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Derek Kiefer - Mantorville, MN

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http://www.musclecarbrakes.com

I haven't had any issues with the power drum set-up on my 66.  But I deceided to up-grade to the brakes pad sold by this company.  I installed the fronts this summer and plan to do the rears this winter.  Just incase you decied not to go to disc brakes.

I think another issue is having the correct size rims if you change to disc brakes.  Chris, another member, had infor on another alternative when you just buy brackets from some company in WA and then you can get the rest of the parts from NAPA.



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Jim L

Lake City



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Thanks for all the replies. Jim brings up a point of just rebuilding the brakes back to stock. Would converting to discs bring the value of the car down if/when I put it back to all original? I still have all matching numbers engine, trans, and paperwork from when it was new. It very seldom sees the street, maybe 300 miles a year. Maybe convert it and just hang on to the original parts for down the road is an option. I am looking at the classic performance kit #6774fbp-11. Any more thoughts or opinions?



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Mark H    N.W. Metro



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Derek69SS wrote:

Being a #s matching documented SS car, I would recommend finding a set of 4-piston discs that would be correct for '67-68.

I think they're being reproduced now.

Assuming it's a 325hp or 350hp car, I don't think it would hurt the value at all, and it would look "correct".

If the car is an L78 though, I'd stick strictly to what's on the build sheet.



-- Edited by Derek69SS on Saturday 15th of December 2012 02:13:05 PM


 I have an original set on my '67 GTO. I know I'll never drive it. I was going to put them on my '67 Camaro but bought the cpp stuff instead. I may be convinced to sell them...headscratch



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Mitch D.   River Falls, WI

Lifetime member of the "Cars apart Club"

1966 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1970 Chevelle SS 396 M20

1967 Camaro SS/RS 350 M20



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So Mark,  do you have the 6 A3 rims or the 67 Rally rims.  As you know disc brakes in 67 only on the ralley rims.  If you have the drum rims, I think you will have problems with the disc brake conversions unless you go with a different set of rims, either 15"  or a XE coded disc brake rim for 14" tires.

If you have the build sheet and it says drums, I would stay with drums.  Hope you don't need the 6 A3 rims.  I just traded a set to a guy from Iowa who has 7 67 chevelles and a 67 vette.

I usually put on around 1000 miles a year and no problem with the drums.



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Jim L

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www.scarebird.com  I think this is what Chris sent.



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Jim L

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